![]() Then screw the Hemera to the carriage from the back. ![]() Grab the included M3x8 screws and insert two of the square nuts into the slots of the Hemera’s end plate. Next, we can mount the Hemera to the carriage. Lightly thread in each screw first, then tighten all of them down. Start with the new printed carriage and bolt it down onto the bearing blocks using the original screws. Now we’re ready to start mounting the Hemera to the printer. Then rotate the block and tighten up the nozzle against the heatbreak by holding on to the heater block and screwing down the nozzlen, and finally lightly tighten the heatbreak back into the extruder body. To rotate it, grab the heater block with a wrench and slightly unscrew the heatbreak from the extruder body, then unscrew the nozzle half a turn, making sure you don’t put any bending stress on the heatbreak. We need this to maintain compatibility with fan shrouds made for the A8. All the other parts should be ready to use straight off the printer.įor the Hemera itself, rotate the heater block 90°, with the long side facing the stepper motor. To prepare the Hemera mount kit, break the little support rings loose from the new carriage. ![]() Once that’s loose, clip off the zip ties holding the belt in place and you should be free to remove the stock carriage from the printer. If you have any bed leveling sensor mounted to the back of the carriage, unscrew that before unbolting the carriage from the bearing blocks. You’ll also need a Phillips 2 screwdriver, a 7mm, 10mm and 16mm spanner and a few hex keys. The upgrade parts also retain compatibility with the original part cooling fan shroud and most of the ones that you can download as upgrades for the stock A8 and it should also allow you to keep using the bed leveling sensors that mount to the back of the carriage.įor this upgrade, you’ll need an Anet A8, a Hemera kit, four M3x5 or M3圆 screws and either a soldering iron or a spare three-pin Dupont connector housing. So that’s what we’re going to do today, the A8 is getting the Hemera upgrade, and while we’re at it, the printed upgrade parts I’ve designed will also be fixing the crooked belt path, add strain relief to the extruder wiring and because we’re adjusting the firmware anyways, let’s just upgrade that to Marlin 2.0 with all the safety features in place. I’ve already put it on the Raptor 2.0 with a Supervolcano because the stock hotend and extruder were absolutely useless on that machine, and I’ve also put it on the Anet A8 because E3D reached out and wanted to sponsor a conversion guide for that. They’ve also changed how the extruder is mounted, and the fact that there’s nothing sticking out from either side does make it pretty convenient and very universal to mount. If you’re thinking about getting a genuine v6 hotend, really, just get the whole Hemera kit. ![]() It’s also very affordable at 90 GBP, so just over 100€, for the extruder with a full v6 hot side and the stepper motor included. It’s still got dual drive gears, a roughly 3 to 1 gearing ratio and a semi-integrated v6 hotend, this is basically what their Titan Aero should always have been. This video is sponsored by E3D, let’s get to it. So it’s now the E3D Hemera, other than the name, it’s the exact same toolhead. Apparently some INTERNATIONAL company was concerned about the HERMES brand and “kindly asked” E3D to change the name. Naturally, I’ve been using it for a few weeks, and my first impressions are that it’s quite a beast of an extruder. E3D just announced their new Hemera toolhead. ![]()
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